Spain
Spain has always been proud of its national traditions, and its wineries
have staunchly resisted the international style of oaky Chardonnays and
tannic Cabernets. This Mediterranean country's top wines continue to be
made with native grape varieties in traditional styles. They reward exploration
by adventurous wine drinkers.
The most successful wines in every price category are red, primarily
those made from the Tempranillo grape, which dominates the regions of
Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Navarra and Toro. Cabernet Sauvignon has begun
to make an appearance, often blended with Tempranillo, while obscure local
grape varieties contribute to the distinctive character of wines from
Penedès, Priorato and Somontano. Spain's wine laws are similar
to those of the French appellation system, with the best vineyard regions
delimited and regulated.
Most bodegas (wineries) offer reds in four quality levels, which correspond
to the amount of aging (in wooden barrels or in bottle) the wines receive
before release. In order of increasing age (and price), they are: sin
crianza, crianza, reserva and gran reserva.
Wines labeled "sin crianza" are released in the year after
harvest; often made, at least in part, through the carbonic maceration
method also responsible for Beaujolais Nouveau, they are light and rarely
leave Spain. For the best values and the freshest fruit, look for crianza
and reserva red wines, which spend at least one year aging in oak barrels.
Gran reservas must spend two years (and often stay much longer) in oak,
and are commonly released only five to seven years after harvest. Even
though they are intended to be the very best wines of their vintage, they
may be overly mature for American tastes when they finally reach retail
shelves.
Rioja's modern wine industry emerged under the guidance of Bordeaux winemakers
fleeing the ruin of the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century.
Their legacies include the practice of blending different grape varieties
and aging the wine in small oak barrels. However, Rioja is based predominately
on the local Tempranillo grape (with Garnacha as a secondary component
used to add body and alcohol; Mazuelo and Graziano are also authorized),
and the barrels are generally made from American rather than French oak,
so the resulting wines have a distinctive character all their own.
Traditional Riojas emphasize balance and elegance; top producers in this
style include Cune, La Rioja Alta and Vina Tondonia. However, responding
to international demand for rounder, fruitier wines, several bodegas have
turned to new viticultural techniques, French oak and shorter barrel aging
to make wines with more concentration. Leaders in this modern style include
Bodegas Martinez Bujanda, Contino and Bodegas Breton. Rioja's two oldest
wineries, Marqués de Riscal and Marqués de Murrieta, are
still leaders, making outstanding wines that manage to incorporate benefits
of both schools.
But despite the breadth and depth of Rioja's wine tradition, our tastings
in the past few years suggest that Spain's most exciting red wines are
now being made in Ribera del Duero, located about 100 miles to the southwest.
Though granted DO appellation status only in 1982, Ribera has benefited
from two powerful dynamos: Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Spain's most prestigious
winery, founded in 1846, and Alejandro Fernandez, an eccentric visionary
whose Tinto Pesquera, made only since 1972, has drawn international attention
to the region.
Notable reds from other regions include the robust Navarras from Bodegas
Julian Chivite, the Torres winery's classic Mas La Plana, a Cabernet Sauvignon
from Penedès and René Barbier's Priorato Clos Mogador, an
inky giant made from intensely concentrated Garnacha grapes. But these
only scratch the surface; Spain produces a wealth of distinctive red wines,
and most sell for well under $20.
Sparkling wines, made by the classic Champagne method but using indigenous
grapes, also provide good value. Called "cava," these come primarily
from the Penedès region, near Barcelona. Don't worry too much about
special designations or vintages; the non-vintage cuvées offer
the best value and a hearty, straightforward taste perfect for parties
or punches.
Whites are hit or miss in Spain. White Riojas and Ruedas, made largely
from Viura, are fresh and clean, while reservas, aged in American oak,
are voluptuous and herb-scented. Chardonnay and other varietal wines have
few advantages over competitors from other countries, but a few indigenous
grapes make distinctive wines from northern regions such as Penedès
and Galicia. White wines made from the Albarino grape in the northwest
region of Rias Baixas offer an appealing mix of ripe fruit and refreshing
acidity.
And don't overlook Sherry. This fortified wine from Andalusia has largely
been forgotten, despite its centuries of fame, yet quality has never been
higher, and in an age of increasing wine standardization, Sherries are
like nothing else in a bottle.
Their flavor spectrum is enormous. Manzanillas and Finos are pale, dry
and delicate despite their 15 degrees of alcohol; drunk well-chilled,
they are delicious aperitifs. Amontillados, with more age and alcohol,
can be redolent of walnuts and honey, and are made both sweet and dry.
Finally, the best dessert Sherries, made largely from supersweet Pedro
Ximenez grapes, resemble prune syrup transformed into nectar; try Osborne's
Oloroso Abocado Solera India for an unforgettable taste sensation. If
proof were needed that Spain's wine producers are fearless in pursuit
of flavor, here it is.
Learn more about these Wine Regions:
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